There are many ways in which the perfumes can be classified. It is desirable to stick to one method and then add or modify that classification and interpret them most suited. The H & R (Harmann and Reimer) chart on Genealogy of Masculine Fragrances is again taken as the reference point. The three fragrance families identified in this genealogy are Fougere, Oriental, and Chypre.
For a detailed study, however, the above classifications are inadequate and tend to stifle and crowd the groups. Hence there are two other groups which are added to the family of masculine fragrances, which are the Lavender and Citrus families. It is also because the perfumes made with these two ingredients are a class of their own and constitute as major sub-groups.
The subfamilies of the five main fragrance families for men are mentioned below:
Primary and Sub-Families of the Masculine Fragrances
|Sub – Family||Fresh||Ambery||Sweet||Woody||Floral|
|Sub – Family||Spicy||Woody||Spicy||Leathery||Fantasy|
|Sub – Family||Fresh||Fresh||Fresh|
|Sub – Family||Floral||Green||Green|
In Lavender Fresh, the essential oils of lavender is an important constituent. With very little other ingredients, Lavender Fresh was used mainly as a woman’s perfume to subsequently become a men’s perfume. It has the sweet floral note with a herbaceous note as time passes on.
Lavender essential oils can be used directly to give the Lavender Fresh note. When this essential oil is blended with spicy notes of Cardamom Oil, Cinnamon or Cloves Oil, in small quantities, the result is the creation of lavender spicy notes. While there are other combinations of some synthetic chemicals like Vanillin or Eugenol the effect is electric.
Fougére is a French term meaning Fern. Fern by itself is not aromatic. This sub-family uses mainly herbaceous material. The materials used to get the effect are Oak Moss, Lavender, Sage, Rosemary, and Geranium. The synthetic substitutes are in plenty which makes this type of fragrance cheaper than the feminine fragrances. They are again regrouped into four other sub-groups namely Ambery, Woody, Fresh, and Floral. The table below gives examples of possible blends using some of the best masculine fragrances.
Fougére | Sub Families and the ingredients
Lily of the valley, Bergamot,
Orange Flower Oil
Oriental fragrances for men have a common platform with those of feminine fragrances. The fragrances of the Oriental family have in them resins like Amber, Benzoin, Vanilla, Sandalwood and Cedarwood. In the Spicy varieties, they contain Cinnamon, Cloves, and Cardamom. In some other masculine perfumes, you find other spicy ingredients, like Pepper and Olibanum. Oriental Sweet combinations contain Vanilla, Jasmin, Cloves, Carnation and Nutmeg.
François Coty created the original Chypre fragrances for men. The ingredients were from Cyprus and the Mediterranean countries, due to which, this family of perfumes has been named after. The perfumes created in this family are heavy and strong. With the use of Citrus families and especially Bergamot along with a Patchouli base, the combination of blends are a welcomed change.
There are four important sub-families in Chypre family of fragrances. They are the Woody, Fresh, Floral and Leathery varieties. The use of Birch Tar Oil was restricted in leathery notes. There are a few synthetic chemicals used in leathery notes today. It is to be noted that leathery fragrance notes are not in demand and are rare in fragrances.
Chypre Family of Fragrances for Men
|Lily of the Valley. Bergamot
|Birch Tar Oil,
The Floral group of fragrance families dominate in the feminine fragrances. Likewise, in the blends for men, the Citrus family plays a dominant role. Along with various citrus fruit extractions, Floral and Fruity groups are blended with them to arrive at a wide range of fragrances. The sub-families of the Citrus are: Citrus Floral, Citrus Fantasy, Citrus Fresh and the Citrus Green. The table below shows possible combinations: